The D2 Forums

Did try do what MikkiJayne said?

Thats really weird. None of the injectors on the corner cylinders are working, but all the middle cylinders are fine. Given that they're wired in bank 1 and bank 2 (according to the diagram anyway), that makes no sense at all. Particularly odd that all the codes are intermittent.

Have you tried clearing them all and seeing which ones come back?

i was using vagcom and didn't see a way to reset. it just kinda does a quick scan then and there i believe. but im not 100%. But that's why I'm wondering if its an issue with the ECM causing these faults.

yes I have went through all the connections I can see and don't see any issues currently, even with me cleaning the relays and relay ports. If there is an issue with a wire its going to be in between the box in the passenger kick-board and the plenum box under the hood. Which sadly I'm a shade tree mechanic but I don't even have a tree, and the weather has been sticking around -10 f (-23 c) with a feels like of -20 f (-28 c) and about a foot of snow on everything hahaha. So i probably wont be sorting through and trying to find a cut in a wire til spring here in a month or two

All editions of VCDS (aka vagcom) can reset error codes. The full fat versions can do all codes at once, VCDS lite can only do a module at a time iirc. But, since we're only looking at the ECU, go in to Select Module from the main screen, then 01 Engine, then Fault Codes, then you can reset them all in there.



Then try to start it again and see which codes come back.

Or, go inside where its warm until the spring!

alrighty thank you for the tip! I dont know much about vcds lite so any tips and tricks are always welcome. after clearing and redoing it it clears. but when you try to start it again all of these will show back up.

17817 - EVAP Purge Valve (N80): Electrical Malfunction
P1409 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
17609 - Fuel Injector for Cylinder 1 (N30): Electrical Malfunction
P1201 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
17613 - Fuel Injector for Cylinder 5 (N83): Electrical Malfunction
P1205 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
17612 - Fuel Injector for Cylinder 4 (N33): Electrical Malfunction
P1204 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
17616 - Fuel Injector for Cylinder 8 (N86): Electrical Malfunction
P1208 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
17919 - Intake Manifold Valve (N156): Electrical Malfunction
P1511 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
17925 - Power Supply Relay for ECU (J271 or J363): Electrical Malfunction
P1517 - 35-00 - -
17917 - Idle Control Valve (N71): Electrical Malfunction
P1509 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
and i dont mind this stuff in the cold. i got a few warm days coming up other wise yeah i might have to wait til april.

Next step is the motronic relay then, Power Supply Relay for ECU in this list above. Its #4 in the diagram on the previous page, in the block in the electronics box. I would suggest replacing it with a known good, standard 4-pin unit. Clean the terminals in the connector block too - emery paper or similar and some WD40, then see how it behaves.

Its odd that its only quoting the injectors at the corners, since all 8 run off this relay, as well as all the other doodads in the list, but see what the relay does first.

as listed before i have replaced that relay as well and cleaned that terminal. it makes me wonder if ive got an issue with the ecm or ive got a few wires all pinched somewhere. when i bridge the motronic relay i get fires just only feels like one cylinder is trying though. normal relay no cylinders get fuel. when bridged it gets fuel with the occasional fire pop but it really feels like one cylinder will fire the rest wont. If i end up replacing the ecm how do i get it programed for my car??

Missed that sorry. Is there any sign of external damage to the wiring harness? Signs of nibbling maybe...?

If not, you might be right with the ecu. If its output stage that powers the relay is fried then that could explain the behaviour. Its pretty simple to code the immobiliser in the prefacelift - plug in the new ecu, switch on the ignition, and leave it for 5 minutes. Switch off and on again and it should have paired itself. As long as the key and the immo box match each other, the immo box is quite happy to code in a replacement ecu.

from what i can tell its pretty clean. some connectors here and there are pretty brittle and frail but still have good connections. i cant tell under the car though. maybe it took damage where i couldnt see. and alrighty. do you know good places to buy a new ecu for my 1997 winter edition one? or does the edition even mater haha. Just so i dont buy a faulty one and i get a good quality one.

Message Spanker (Dean) I'm sure he can source you a new virgin unit or a good second hand one from Germany.
You will need to have the part number which can be read from the ECU itself or through vcds.
He has a thread in the Audi tradition section of the forum.