The D2 Forums

Should be 4D0 907 557D for the US market. Best to try and find one from a partout. Its rare that they fail so it should be a fairly safe bet to get one from something which was running.

Well while taking out the ecu i found something interesting. one of the pins is completely corroded off. I know the pictures aren't the best but you can see the missing pin and the green port (the corroded pin broke off into it) Would you guys know what pin that broke off here went to? And I am messaging him now for a ecu cause i will need one anyways.

Well that would probably upset it. Looks like water has wicked in to the harness, so an ECU may not be the end of it. Everything looks wet in there. Is that a puddle in the bottom of the ECU box?

I can't see the pin numbers in the picture so can't identify which wire that is.

Where are you? If you're in North America, your ECU is different to the Euro versions. What is the part number on it?

Ive messaged spanker about getting a new one but alot of it is from me using a heavy dosage of non conductive cleaner. there was some water that got into it (my fault) snowing while working on it. im sure there is more issues ill be finding. we had a huge heat wave kick in to start spring finally so we went from -10 f (-23 c) to 55 f (12.7 c) within 4 days. Sounds stupid and it was stupid. I swear it was bone dry when i got the poor thing. ill be looking though out these connnectors taking them apart one by one and seeing if theres more hidden corrosion there. and that was pin number 2 the wire is red with a blue stripe, on the second closest bank to inside the car. so the second farthest bank from the engine on the ecu.

That sucks

There are current flow diagrams in each forum section, you should be able to find what each of the pins is responsible for.

I sent a reply to you via PM

Switching the ECU i noticed the fuel said empty after dumping 7 gallons in it said 3/4 full and started right up. Had a rough idle and alot of valve sounds, but as it warmed up most of it went away. There is still a slightly rough idle and now the code says cylinders 1 and 7 have misfires (actually says misfire not interment), and the brake position sensor on the transmission says fault even after clearning. but the valve sound is completely gone after it got oil throughout the system. Does it say misfire when the injectors a clogged? It did slowly run better after letting it sit but you can tell there is still a misfire since the care shakes a bit idling. idle rpm is roughly 750 which seems normal speeds.

The misfiring could be a few things. Bad injectors, coils wiring etc. I would start with the wiring. It is of course also possible bad drivers in the ecu.

My suggestion is that you need to check for output to the injector plug. At least to see if it is being told to fire. Bear in mind that the car may disable the injector once it registers a misfire. It does this to protect the catt's. You will need to cycle the ignition I think to get it working again.

A similar multimeter on 12v DC, back probed on the injector plug should give some indication of working or not. You will need to be quite though as the injector pulses are brief and multimeter"s are slow to react.

A test light would be better but you need to be careful you don't overload the circuit. It needs to be ecu friendly.

An led probe is even better but most people don't usually have access to one.

I'd check for the pulse first and then go from there.

On a prefacelift misfires are almost always the ignition amplifiers which live under the trim round the air filter housing, or the ignition coils themselves. The old ones are not very reliable. The first thing to do is swap one of the coils with its neighbour and see if the misfire moves - if so, ignition coil.

If not, swap the two coil amps and see if the misfires move. If so, one or both amplifiers. They are the same as on the 1.8T so should be easily available and not very expensive.